1971 Datsun 510

Ex-SCCA B Production Sedan racing car. Now prepared for vintage racing. Fast & competitive. Second place at Fall, 2020, VRG Enduro at Watkins Glen.

Below are the 1800 c.c. engine build specifications, as explained by the engine builder, Jeff Winter, to the owner: 

Engine

0.020” was milled from the deck surface of the SSS head to raise compression ratio.   .040” over bore  high compression JE pistons were  installed  resulting in a compression ratio of about 13:1 .    “Long rod “  Carrillo rods were installed.  Your cam is a new grind of mine that will produce a nice broad power band  with plenty of torque and a horsepower peak near 7,500 rpm.   Driveable power range will be  5,500 min to 8,000 rpm.  Your shifting points will generally be  7,000 to 7,500 but it will take 8,000 when needed.  This was ground on a billet cam so  a cam spray bar was installed to lubricate the cam.  Original cam was internally oiled thru the cam towers  and then thru the hollow cam. Valve clearance will be .010 intake and .012 exh……….   Warm.  I would suggest checking your valve clearances before each race. Clearance checking should be measured between rocker arm and cam base circle heel. Measure with cam lobe sticking straight up.  You can usually do two lobes at a time before rotating cam. Generally they will remain in good shape for several races however it`s a good thing to get used to the procedure and it will also head off any potential cam or valve train issues.

 Running oil pressure will show 60 to 70 psi .hot. The indicated oil pressure on your O.P. gauge will indicate about ten psi less that what is being produced in the engine due to the cam spray bar oil supply location. The oil pressure can be adjusted by adding or subtracting washers between the oil pressure relief piston spring and the exterior retainer nut/fitting. Idle oil pressure on a hot engine will be low…. maybe even 20 psi but when you rev it up, oil pressure will come right up.

 The spark plugs are installed with indexing washers for necessary clearance  between plugs  and pistons.  The combustion chambers have been modified extensively for better flow. Be careful  when  you remove spark  plugs……….  Washers are required to be there, DO NOT LOSE THEM. 

 The exhaust ports and chambers of the head have been redone for better flow. 

I would recommend 36-40 mm carb venturis. Exhaust gas temps should be 1,200 to 1,300 degrees for best power.  Main jet sizes will be 160 to 170 with air correctors in the 160 to 180 range. These jetting recommendations are just that……..  a starting point.  Mixtures can be changed significantly throughout the rpm range  with changes of both main and air jets. Don’t hesitate to call me for any questions you may have . (Greg Wold note: I can’t remember the exact venturis, but think I used 38’s….. You will need to look down the throat of the carb to see what they are stamped)

 Coolant temperatures should be in the 180 to 200 degree range for best power. 220 degrees  is  ok but really should run cooler. Coolant temps have never been a problem ………  a good aluminum radiator  ( VW rabbit / Scirocco unit works well ) and oil cooler should be used.

 Make sure that the timing is set for 36 degrees maximum advance at 4,500 rpm.  The front pulley is marked at tdc and  36 degrees.

 Be sure to fill all oil hoses , coolers and filter with new oil before you start the engine for the first time. I also prime the oil gallery in the block from the outside  with a good oil squirt  can thru the oil filter boss. I use Valvoline 10W-40  `All Season`  for break in.  When starting , bring the engine up to a steady  2,000 ………  do not let engine idle slowly on start up.  Bring up to 180 degrees and shut engine off. Let it cool back down to 140 or so before starting up again. Make sure to use a fan to keep things cool. An idling speed of  1,600 is fine.   When starting up a hot engine,  it is best to hold the throttle fully open till the engine catches.  Your technique may vary.

The engine has approximately 7 total hours on it now. It has an MSD ignition, and exhaust runs through tubular headers.

Brakes

• Original front 10” discs, rear drums converted to 9.5” disc
• Original single-piston front calipers with Porterfield pads, single-piston Maxima rear sliding calipers with Hawk back pads
• Dual-circuit master cylinder
• Rear brake bias lever in cockpit

Wheels & Tires

• 13 x 8” Panasport, Aluminum wheels
• Hoosier TD R tires – The tires shown in the photos have been replaced.

Bodywork/Chassis

• Original steel tub
• Fiberglass front fenders with flares
• Steel rear fenders with fiberglass flares
• Steel doors
• Fiberglass hood
• Fiberglass trunk lid
• Fiberglass front BRE lip spoiler
• Full cage with door bars, tied into front strut towers per period SCCA rules
• Total weight without driver: ~1860 lbs.

Suspension

• Original front lower control arms and struts with adjustable coil overs
• Fully adjustable rear semi-trailing arms
• Upgraded front sway bar
• Adjustable front camber plates

Interior

• Removable 14” NRG race steering wheel
• Instrumentation including tachometer, oil pressure, water temperature, fuel pressure, EGT, and air/fuel ratio
• Master shutoff switch
• Ignition switch, dual fuel pump switches, alternator activator switch, electric fan switch, and air/fuel gauge on/off switch

Driveline

• 5-speed Nissan close-ratio gearbox
• Reverse not used
• Limited slip R160 differential
• Nissan axles

Etc.

• New fire system
• New belts 
• 10 or 12 gallon fuel cell in trunk
• The 510 is legal for SVRA or any other vintage club
• The Datsun comes with a small assortment of spares, including a spare gearbox

All vehicle descriptions are accurate to the best of our knowledge at the time of writing. Corrections, and supplemental information, are always welcome. Buyers are responsible for confirming vehicle histories, condition, and authenticity to their own satisfaction prior to purchase. Motorsports Market is not the owner of the vehicle and assumes no liability for errors and omissions.

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